As you’ve discovered, getting filler/putty to look natural is a VERY difficult endeavor.
I am tempted to use the steel wool and then a thin coat of a dark brown stain to get it closer to the gunstock colour but would really like a second opinion?????? The cabinets are beautiful, but the There used to be a product out there that would do this very thing.
This week’s question comes from Darin.
How do I do this?
The SW recommendation is not bad for a wood that isn’t prone to blotch. Preparing the maple for stain is easy, finish sand down to 400 grit going with the grain of the wood as you sand. can you make a video for this? I just had my house built and went with very dark maple kitchen cabinets and they look hidious.
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Thanks in advance, K, Whenever changing the color of a piece, I prefer to go down to bare wood.
We chose custom, high-end, poplar
It does indeed dry clear but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t bring a color hue with it.
Get it as soon as Wed, Nov 4. What are your reccommended materials for a door that will be in high humidity like a bathroom? We are trying to stain a maple bar counter in our restaurant to have a weathered, gray look.
For example, if you take a highly figured piece of curly maple and stain it black with the appropriate dye(note: alcohol, water based, stains and leather dyes, yes, leather dyes) then evenly sand it out, it will take on the appearance of a zebra. If you like the look of dark floors, then I say go for the darker color. When we got in contact with the project manager for the construction company, he told us the company had gone bankrupt. Deep Ocean, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain colours made with the White Tint Base, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain Needless to say he couldn’t complete the job. thanks so much! I put a second coat of the same stain on it and the next morning it’s like you can actually see some of the strokes I took putting the stain on after the second coat. Sounds like a potential preparation issues to me.
I was also considering spraying versus wipe on with the gel.
I just installed maple floors in my house and I im having a big concern as to how to go about staining the floors.
I was very lucky to pick up a mid century library card catalog cabinet for a song. All that said, if you really want to do the filler route, I would recommend checking out Timbermate Wood Filler. Hi Marc, We don’t want people to notice that there are two different woods in use.
Another stain? I’d recommend something like a danish oil if you’re new to finishing. I wanted a rustic light wash, so the beautiful wood grain would show through.
As for gel stains, they work great.
And even it it doesn’t fill it completely, I personally think a natural-looking dent is better than a perfectly flat filled surface.
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Just apply it like your cleaning a wood with mineral spirits. But if you want to enjoy the wood grain, you need to resolve those scratches. But I am hesitant to “monday morning quarterback” your cabinet guy without more information. Winter Moss, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain
Early Spring, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain Then move up to 150, 180, and then 220. To some extent, yes, it could lessen the visual impact of the curl. Birch has pink undertones. Classic Black, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain
I’m still a novice and while I took some care to check from piece to piece that the grain wasn’t drastically different, there are panels that start out dark and more figured and by the other end of the panel it’s cleaner, clearer, and more uniform.
Both of the oak species took on a sort of Cerused look I’m very into. Can you post a link to a picture or email one to me so I can actually see it? What do you suggest as lacquer?
These finishes are what they call “water white” meaning they don’t add the same amber and yellow tones we see from oil-based finishes and traditional lacquers. There's a problem loading this menu right now. My plan is to spray with an alcohol mixed dye. Also, the stain needs to be thoroughly mixed before application, in order to get the colorants uniformly distributed in the stain. Let me know, thanks!!
However I will try it again with the shellac as I applied it over Minwax wood conditioner last time.
For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, the choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! (they turnned out so beautiful) He said he sprayed them on. Also, be sure to use a blonde shellac since that emparts little to no color at all. In Darin’s case, from the “orange” tone he describes, maybe a slight amount of blue-green, green, or yellow-green tint in the shellac sanding sealer would produce the brown color he wants in the finished (pun intended) product.
Golden Oak 210B, Minwax® Wood Finish™
Sangria, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain So if the Candlelight is too red, you can always follow up with a coat of java to darken it up.
I am not a sophisticated woodworker but I built some cabinets and stained them Rust-oleam “Kona” with excellent results.
Now, if you still want to get a darker finish on your Maple Cabinet Doors, here are some tips. How should I go about refinishing these cabinets? But from what you describe, it sounds like water-based might be right up your alley. I would hit the maple with a light coat of shellac. The only way you can really hide them is to cover them up with paint. I ordered GF in colonial maple gel stain, and the gel top coat to finish it. The sample is indeed white, but the undertones are now a bile yellow-green. It’s a nice natural wood looking stain that deepens the natural, grain colors of the wood. 3. The gel stain however, went on much more evenly, and I found it to be very forgiving.
Watched your review on dyes and read several of your posts.
Would you recommend a gel stain or an alcohol based one?
Oh and keep in mind you might just be able to use a water-based dye to the same end. I think the raised grain helped the wood grab onto more pigment (especially given my choice in stain which I’ll get to). A quick history: we bought a foreclosure and the kitchen wasn’t even in working condition. Would really appreciate it if you can provide some pointers. The contractor used Minwax, Early American. The ever popular and inexpensive Pine has yellow undertones.
Or should I just embrace the differences?
There is very little difference between the conditioned and unconditioned white and red oaks, but the other three definitely benefited from the pre-stain conditioner. I know I’ll need to do lots of prep work and would appreciate a recommendation for a stripper that I can get a hold of. then apply stain <—- I'm still confuse about these water,oil,gel based stain but I'm planning to use polyshade.
Follow that up with thorough sanding and you should be good to go.
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You can get dewaxed shellac by the gallon under the name Bullseye Sealcoat.
Helllo there, we just built a house and had our cabinets throughout our house custom build. If I used the colonial maple and then for my second coat the praire wheat, on samples of course. Also I ordered a maple Fireplace surround and the workers stained it. I used Minwax conditioner before I stain but still blotchy. )and the floors we have revealed seem to be maple.
And although you have no protective film on the wood yet, you DO have the color.
Waterborne finishes will not protect as well as their oil-based counterparts.
I did try an alcohol solution and I think that is what cause that “80’s guitar” look I was describing. But if you use General Finishes Java on top of that, you might very well love the results. Its getting all the deeply absorbed color out that’s the problem. Long story short, I’m left with cabinets that look as if someone did a horrible job of trying to distress them, not the look I want.
(Hint: Red). Uhg. Thank you. Follow along as this DIY couple shares their findings, and tips imparts some helpful guidance to get you started on your next wood finishing project. Should I just give it a light sanding and then use a gel stain on top to achieve the darker desired colour?
How difficult would it be to sand and refinish the floors to a lighter finish without a stripey look? for what I know there are also some kind of water,oil,wax based for polyurethane? I recommend Charles Neal formula outlined in this article: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....-them-all/. This explains the yellows and oranges but doesn’t really explain the greenish brown.
Its really sad to see a grown man cry:-{ Normally that last part is something we want to avoid, but in your case, its a necessary step. Graining: While the Gel Stain is wet, use a graining tool to create a wood grain pattern. With Minwax® wood stains, there’s a color to suit every style. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. FREE Shipping. If you only know of brands in the states that’s ok as I’m sure I’ll be doing a trip soon and might be able to pick some up there. I used a the pre stain wood conditioner from minwax since that is what our local store had. But reading here maybe i need to try spraying a dye first?
You are definitely doing the right thing though by practicing on scrap. Click on a colour chip for a larger view.
STAIN MINWX8OZ COL MAPLE. Once it cures, just topcoat with your finish of choice and you’ll be good to go.
Dutch Chocolate, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain
The…. Lastly, we thought it would be beneficial to see all the same wood type with different stains in one picture. The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. I would contact a floor coatings expert for something like that. Too late now….
Then, apply your topcoat of choice. I wish I had read this before starting my library shelves 5 years ago.
is there a waterbourne finish that wouldn’t have that result?
Minwax Simply White. From top (Minwax stains): 50/50 Jacobean & Ebony, Jacobean and Dark Walnut. Rosewood, Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain We’ve been wanting to do a wood/stain study for years now and in my head, I wanted to do every type of wood with about 20 different stains each.But with limited resources (not to mention space), we settled on 5 popular species of wood commonly used by DIYers, with 6 different stains; 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark. or is that going to be a matter of dealing with it every so often and sanding it down and refinishing it? (I usually avoid maple unless I plan on painting it as I’ve been warned of it’s blotchy tendencies but couldn’t resist this as it was the perfect style and only $30 on Craiglist).
I would probably drop all the way back down to the lowest grit you started with. And Red Oak should probably stay away from things that add even more red to it (like Pickled Oak and Golden Pecan).
Unfortunately, one or two samples won’t alway tell the tale. David, MasterCraft ( Menards) maple unfinished doors.
Are we crazy?
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